Saundra Ros Altman's: Past Patterns

How to order #018: A Single-Breasted Shawl Collar Summer Waistcoat for
Plain or Formal Dress: Fashionable Circa 1845 to 1858.

#018: A Single-Breasted Shawl Collar Summer Waistcoat for Plain or Formal Dress: Fashionable Circa 1845 to 1858. The pattern includes a removable chest pad pattern. Pattern $17.00 (US dollars).

Order pattern #018 in chest sizes: sizes 34"-38", sizes 40"-46", and sizes 48"-54".

For a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2" of yardage for every 1" of height above 5'6".

Fashion Fabric 45" : Sizes 34"-54"-1 Yd.

Lining and Pocketing 45" : Sizes 34"-38"- 3/4 Yds., Sizes 40"-46"-7/8 Yds.,
Sizes 48"-54"-1 1/8 Yds. 

Glazed Cotton Back 45" : Sizes 34"-38"-3/4 Yd., Sizes 40"-46"-7/8 Yd.,
Sizes 48"-54"-1 Yd.

Fabrics for a Morning or Work Vest: Medium Weight Fabrics in Cotton - prints, satin weave (natural and white), seersucker (blue/white, brown/white, black/white), drill or satin weave, and 1/4" to 1" woven checks  (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Linen - natural and white plain weave, natural or white drill and satin weave, 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Fabrics for a Half-Dress Vest: buff cashmere, marseilles, linen, nankeen or brown linen. Fabrics for a Full Dress Vest: white silk, satin, marseilles or fine linen. Fabrics for a Ball Vest: rich white, watered and fancy silk.

NOTIONS: Buttons: Five 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" four hole Japanned, bone, China, ocean or fresh water pearl and calico for morning and work vests; self covered, semi-pecious, fancy glass for half dress, full dress and ball vests. If hand sewing use 35/2 or 50/2 white, brown, natural or blue linen hand sewing thread, bees' wax to wax the thread; tailor's blue chalk for making; one quart of liquid starch to starch the cotton and linen vests;  one 1" buckle of gold or silver color; 1/2 Yd. cotton quilt batting for removable vest pads.

TAILORS' SUPPLIES: Wm. Booth, Draper, at 12119 Bigelow Ave., Hebron, IL 60034. Phone: (815) 648-9048. Brown glazed cotton from Needle and Thread, 2215 Fairfield Rd., Gettysburg, PA 17325. Phone: (717) 334-4011. Suppliers for broadcloth and accessories: Wm. Booth, Draper, ; Roy Najecki,; Needle and Thread, Phone (717) 334.4011.

Past Patterns' #018 waistcoat pattern has a documented history. It is copied from a full-sized pattern sheet, printed on both sides, bearing the handwritten words "Fall & Winter 1849." Several waistcoats and overcoats, a tail coat and a frock coat are printed on the sheet. On the reverse side are printed the same items but for boys. The patterns overlap one another, and each has its own line type. The publisher of the pattern is unknown.

The similarities between the 1849 waistcoat pattern and the 1850s and 1860s waistcoat patterns ended in 1858, when the collar and lapels become considerably narrower.

The Historical Notes begin with James McDaniel's advertisements in Dayton, Ohio, in the 1840s, tracing the course of his business as he changed his address and added new products in order to compete successfully during the unrelenting expansion of the ready-made trade. Next is The Ladies' Work-Table Book (1843), followed by merchant tailors' newspaper advertisements from the United States during and 1850s; two sartorial publications, Scott's Report of Fashions and The Elegant; and one catalog selling ready-made clothing (1853). Fabrics in the Historical Notes that are marked with an asterisk (*) are defined in a Glossary.

This #018 vest completes an ensemble when worn with a starched shirt our #010 or #011, lightly starched washable summer trousers #014 or #015 and the lightly starched summer paletot #009. Also consider wearing drawers #006.

This pattern is copyrighted March of 1993 and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Phone us at (937) 223-3722 or use the Order Form to order by fax or mail.

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