Saundra Ros Altman's: Past Patterns

#8355: Ladies' Waist: Circa 1896

The Vintage Revivals patterns are only one size; the original size. The pattern envelope, instructions and pattern pieces are unedited. The older the pattern the more likely it is to have limited instructions. The patterns are printed on blue line paper and packaged in plastic.


 

Pattern #8355: Ladies' Waist: Circa 1896

Size: 30" bust.

This pattern was published by The Butterick Pattern Company. Originally the pattern was described as "Ladies' Waist with leg-o-mutton sleeves, high collar and peplum." Minimal directions. Pattern dates circa 1896.

Suggested fabrics: Wash silk, crepe, crepon, albatross, nuns' veiling, challis, gingham, batiste, Chambery, and lawn. The colors were pale blue, white, and warm - vivid, garish and very startling. This pattern was published in conjunction with a seven gore skirt, Pattern No. 8320

Materials required: 3-5/8 Yds. 36" wide.

Cost: $11.00

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Original Period Pattern Descriptions

The following are original period descriptions of this pattern found in the May 1896 Delineator magazine,
published by the Butterick Publishing Company.

LADIES' BASQUE-WAIST WITH RIPPLE PEPLUM SEWED ON.
(TO BE MADE WITH A WHOLE BACK OR A CONVENTIONAL BASQUE-BACK.)

Figure No. 332 R.
LADIES” CALLING TOILETTE.
This illustrates waist No. 8355.

Figure No. 332 R.- LADIES' CALLING TOILETTE. Figure No. 332 R. -This consists of a ladies' basque waist. The basque waist pattern, which is No. 8355 and costs 1s. 3d or 30 cents, is in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure, and is differently portrayed on page 545. Figured cream challis and green silk overlaid with lace are here united in the toilette. The basque-waist may have seamless back or conventional basque back, as preferred. The fanciful front is in sections, thus making possible some very attractive combinations. Becoming fullness at the center is collected in gathers at the top and bottom. A ripple peplum lengthens the waist stylishly, its ends being wide apart at the front; the joining is concealed by a ribbon belt that is closed with a buckle over the closing of the waist. The sleeves are of the one-seam leg-o'-mutton variety; they have fullness gathered at the top and are completed with cavalier cuffs that are overlaid with lace and flare in deep points at the back of the arm. An Essex collar flares becoming over a wrinkled ribbon that is bowed at the back. The decorations completed by ribbons arranged in upright loops over the straps on the shoulders and carried part way across the fronts, ending at the bust under pretty bows. Numerous combinations will be arranged in this toilette, and the sheer textiles, such as grenadine and batiste, will be largely chosen for it. Ribbon will form pleasing garniture. The straw hat is fancifully bent and is adorned with flowers and lace.
 
The Delineator, Fashions For May 1896, page 523.


No. 8355.-Other views of this basque-waist may be obtained by referring to figures Nos. 310R and 332R in this number of THE DELINEATOR. At figure A82 on the Ladies' Plate for Summer, 1896, the garment is illustrated differently developed.
       A handsome effect is here produced in the basque-waist, the materials being reseda suiting and darker ribbon and velvet. The basque-waist may be made with a smooth French back or with a conventional basque back, as illustrated. It is arranged over a lining fitted by double bust darts and the usual seams and closing is made invisibly down the center of the front. Each front consists of three sections, the middle section being of velvet and sewed underneath to the other sections; the overlapping edges of the sections are followed by a row of jet passementerie and becoming fullness collected in gathers at the top and bottom of the front is drawn well to the center, leaving the sides smooth. The basque-waist extends to the waist-line, but is lengthened by a circular ripple peplum made with a center seam and ending at each side of the fullness in the front. A gilt belt with a fancy buckle conceals the joining of the peplum. At the neck is a standing collar on which is mounted a circular turned-over portion of velvet; a wrinkled ribbon covers the standing collar and is stylishly bowed at the back. The one-seam leg-o'-mutton sleeves are made over coat-shaped linings; they fit closely on the forearm, but have much fullness collected in gathers at the top, and they droop and flare with the effect of large puffs above the elbow. Gauntlet cuffs of velvet bordered at the top and ends with passementerie flare stylishly from the wrists. A novel effect is produced by epaulettes of ribbon that are arranged in plaits over the shoulders and fall in two long loops over each sleeve.
       Mohair, brilliantine, crepon, serge and light-weight novelty goods in combination with velvet are stylish for developing this basque-waist.
       We have pattern No. 8355 in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure. For a lady of medium size, the garment calls for three yards and an eight of dress goods forty inches wide, with one yard of velvet twenty inches wide, and two yards and three-eights of ribbon four inches and three-fourths wide. Of one material, it needs size yards and five-eights twenty-two inches wide, or four yards and three-fourths thirty inches wide, or four yards and an eighth thirty-six inches wide, or three yards and three-eights forth-four inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. 3d. or 30 cents.
 
The Delineator, Fashions For May 1896, pages 542-543.


Figure 24X. - COMBINATION AND DECORATION FOR A LADIES' BASQUE-WAIST. - In this basque-waist figured taffeta, white satin and white stain ribbon were combined according to pattern No. 8355, price 1s. 3d or 30 cents. The back may be seamless or fitted in the usual way, and the fronts are in sections, the middle one at each side being cut from white satin and the edges overlapping these being followed by gimp to emphasize the unique effect. Gathered fullness appears at the center. A gilt belt conceals the joining of a ripple peplum which lengthens the waist. Plaited ribbon epaulettes on each shoulder end in loops that fall upon the leg-o'-mutton sleeves, which are completed with pointed cavalier cuffs of satin trimmed with gimp. The collar flares over a neck band covered with a white satin ribbon bowed at the back.
 
The Delineator, Fashions For May 1896. pages 579

Figure No. 24X
COMBINATION AND DECORATION FOR A
LADIES' BASQUE-WAIST.

Cut by pattern No. 8355.


Dress For Graduation Day

In the toilette illustrated at figure No. 11GA white taffeta is relieved by light-yellow taffeta, yellow lierre lace, satin ribbon and very small pearl-and-rhinestone buttons. The skirt has seven gores, the seams being concealed by rolling flutes which result from plaits underfolded below the hips. A lace flounce headed by a twist of yellow silk caught at intervals with buttons trims the skirt, which is made up by pattern No. 8320 , price 1s. 3d. or 30 cents. The basque-waist is made full at the center of the front between slashes, revealing full sections of yellow silk crossed by several rows of insertion. A yellow silk peplum bordered with insertion falls from the edge of the waist, a narrow belt of tinted silk being clasped about the waist with a small Rhinestone buckle. Pointed flaring cuffs corresponding with the peplum finish the leg-o'-mutton sleeves, over which fall deep lace flounces headed like the skirt flounce. The stock is made of ribbon disposed in a bow at the back and over the top rolls an Essex collar of white silk, the contrast being very effective. Pattern No. 8355, price 1s. 3d. or 30 cents., is used for the basque-waist.
 
The Delineator, Fashions For May 1896, pages 598-599.

Ladies' Toilette
This illustrates basque No. 8355 and skirt No. 8320.


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